The Sierra de Grazalema and further afield by Sue Eatock of Nature Plus

Benamahoma is one of the little-known, quiet, white villages of Andalucia. Being completely surrounded by tree-covered hillsides adds to the tranquility and the purity of the air. Here is the source of the Majaceite river which cascades over the limestone rocks in its descent through the rich, green woodland gallery.

This balmy, rural retreat shows a different aspect and is at its busiest when the village casts an annual glance back through history in the lively re-enacted street battle of the Moors Vs the Christians (held in early August).

The Sierra de Grazalema is a fabulous holiday destination as it has such a variety of things to offer, including culture, history, nature, gastronomy, outdoor sports, and of course it is ideal for simply relaxing, taking in the scenery, or watching the stars (due to very little light pollution, starry nights offer a wonderful experience).

As an introduction, here are a few ideas for just some of the things you can explore and experience during your stay.

To appreciate the natural surroundings:

A short drive (or walk) away in the village of El Bosque you can visit the Botanical Gardens of 'El Castellejo' which boasts an excellent collection of plants and trees naturally found in Andalucia. Here the best selection is brought together, with a comfortable stone path following a circular route. The plants are well marked with their scientific name to help you identify what you are seeing out on your walks and drives through the mountain range. (Free entry)

If you are interested in plants then the Spanish Fir Tree Abies pinsapo will be at the top of your 'Must See' list. Even if you have never given a second thought to plants & trees, this is one worth keeping an eye open for as you explore the area, it is what is known as a 'living fossil'. Historically it would have had a much wider natural range. Now, due to intense human pressure, fire damage, and a warming climate, it only has 3 main areas where it continues to grow naturally. One of these areas is the Sierra de Grazalema, and a large part of the reason that this became a protected natural park.

Another tree that may pique your interest is the Cork Oak Quercus suber. At a moment when sustainability, recycling, and protecting natural resources are constantly on our minds, taking a look at the biodiversity within the cork oak forests will have you eager to look into the many uses cork actually has. (Natural cork products make fabulous, light to carry, gifts).

Wildflowers, including terrestrial orchids, are on many people's wish list to see in this area. The Sierra de Grazalema enjoys a unique microclimate, multiple mountainous peaks, deep valleys, high plains, rocky cliffs, etc., thus creating a wide selection of habitats. You can see European plant species growing here alongside plants natural to North Africa. Add to this a handful of endemic species that only grow in the parkland, and you have a wonderful array to attract plant lovers.

While you are enjoying the mountainous scenery you are bound to notice groups of very large birds soaring and spiraling upwards in rising air thermals. These are most likely to be Griffon vultures Gyps fulvus, which live here all year round and nest in the tallest, most abrupt limestone cliffs throughout the park. In this part of southwest Spain are the two largest Griffon vulture colonies in Europe. If you look around a group of Griffon vultures, sometimes there can be an eagle sharing the same air currents. There are two eagle species here all year round, and a further three species that arrive in spring and stay for the breeding season. Bird watchers can find plenty to enjoy throughout the year.

Wild mammals can be difficult to spot, as they are generally very secretive. Two of the largest that you might be lucky to see are the Spanish Ibex Capra pyreneaica and Red Deer Cervus elaphus hispanicus.
The Spanish Ibex is a wild mountain goat, the best way to recognise the difference is that all of the Ibex have horns, even the females and the young. The horns on the males grow longer each year and curve back towards their shoulders. (Not branched and upright like the male Red deer's antlers)

Make the most of your stay in the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park and let a local guide show you the highlights

Nature Plus – Grazalema

Sue is a local guide living in Grazalema (originally from the UK). She can show you the different views, animals & plants of the natural park at an introductory level, or more in-depth to suit your interests, with routes adapted to your abilities. She specializes in the flora and fauna of the Sierra de Grazalema and complements this with local history and culture to offer a more rounded experience. Contact email natureplus.grazalema@gmail.com Tel; (0034) 666 999 421

Walking;
Río Majaceite is a lineal route of approx 5km one way (10 km there and back)
This is a fairly easy path that traverses the river several times on narrow bridges. The river flows all year round descending through many small cascades and flowing fast over large boulders.
(Just to mention that it can get very busy on weekends and local bank holidays, & it is not permitted to bathe in the river.)

Walk near to Benamahoma;
Llanos del Campo is a recreation area with ample parking, green areas to enjoy with the family, and some picnic benches. There is a short circular walk which passes through woodland called 'El Tesorillo' this walk is 1.2km long and takes approx 30 minutes.

An easy family walk from the same parking area at Llanos de Campo, you can cross the road to the start of a walk called 'Llanos del Berral' this walk is linear, it is 1.2km each way and takes approx 1 hour including the return on the same track. You will have fabulous views across this rich Mediterranean woodland with a lush undergrowth of shrubs.

If you are doing some online reasearch you will notice that PERMITS are required for just 4 paths in the Sierra de Grazalema; El Torreón, El Pinsapar, Llanos del Rabel, & Garganta verde.

Driving;

Here are two circular driving routes to give you a sample of what you can discover;

Starting from and returning to Benamahoma, including the White Villages of Prado del Rey, Zahara de la Sierra, and Grazalema

As well as enjoying the village of Prado del Rey and the Centro Interpretación Etnográfico Sierra de Cádiz, you can visit the Salinas del Iptuci. The salt pans of Iptuci are the only inland salt flats that are preserved in the province of Cádiz. There were many more in the area at the beginning of the twentieth century, but with the expansion of the electricity network and ease of cold storage, the local demand for salt declined.

Zahara de la Sierra is incredibly photogenic from the far side of the dam at the Zahara/ El Gastor reservoir. From this angle, the village & the tower stand out well against a mountainous backdrop. This is a fabulous village to wander around, take in the views, steep streets and enjoy stopping off at the local bars. You can usually climb up to the top of the historic tower, although there are occasions when it is closed due to archeological excavations.

Leaving Zahara there are 2 routes that you can choose from to get to Grazalema village. One takes you through the mountain pass of "Puerto de las Palomas", well worth it to appreciate the amazing views at the parking and 'Mirador'. Although if you prefer not to take the high route, you can drive parallel to the reservoir and enjoy a more gentle ascent to Grazalema through "La Ribera de Gaidóvar" valley.

Grazalema village is set in a valley at around 900m, surrounded by higher limestone mountains. It is a picturesque white village with steep, narrow stone-paved streets and figures in the top 10 most beautiful villages of Spain. Ideally, take some time to wander through the streets and enjoy the views within the village and its surroundings. What to look out for; the Lavadero publico & la fuente Romana de los Ocho Caños, Museo textil de mantas de lana, la Calzada Medieval, the view from the Mirador Asomaderos, and a short, steep climb above the village to the view point of El Santo.

Returning to Benamahoma you will drive through the Puerto del Boyar. It is well worth stopping here for a moment as it is a mountain pass (altitude 1103m) with fabulous views westwards towards the Cadiz coastline, around 80km away.

Starting from and returning to Benamahoma, including the White Villages of El Bosque, Ubrique, Benaocaz, Villaluenga del Rosario & Grazalema

In El Bosque, we have already mentioned the Botanical Gardens. You could also visit their cheese museum, where you can learn first-hand about the artisanal elaboration process and learn about the history of cheese.

Ubrique is the larger village and home to a thriving leather industry, here they make some of the most popular brands of luxury leather goods.

Benaocaz has at its centre the architectural remains of Nasrid fortified buildings and streets, you can walk through the ruins and let your imagination wander to how life might have been in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries in this rural, mountainous region.

The village of Villaluenga del Rosario is dwarfed by mountain ridges, it is both the smallest and highest village within the Sierra. Points of interest here are the cemetery which is constructed within the ruins of the El Salvador church, the bull ring is very unusual and probably the oldest in the province. Unusual in that it is multi-sided whereas they are normally round, it is built on rock and the walls and seating are made of stone. There is a cheese museum here, and a short walk below the village is a swallow hole (sinkhole) 'La sima de Villalunga'.

We have briefly mentioned leather and cork, there are other traditional hand-crafted products that you could look out for.
Esparto is a type of grass that grows on the mountainsides. This grass is collected, dried then it can be woven into numerous different objects. From baskets of all sizes and bags to lampshades, bottle carriers, and window blinds

Hand-crafted Ceramics, combine a natural product and imagination to form decorative and useful items and unique gifts.

Typical local gastronomy

Traditional dishes take you back to a time before there were asphalted supply roads, fridges, freezers, and a variety of local supermarkets.
Seasonal vegetation, foods that you could make at home from simple ingredients, or store over extended periods by bottling, preserving, salting, or drying were the staples alongside the daily products such as eggs and bread.

In autumn the correct balance between rainfall and cold weather can bring an abundant harvest of wild mushrooms and edible fungi. In winter the locals look forwards to soups, stews, and broths that can be eaten with a spoon. Olives are collected in the winter and either preserved for the table or pressed for their oil. Early spring is the time for searching out the tender new shoots of wild asparagus and Spanish oyster thistles. Summer's heavy crop of tomatoes leads to cold Gazpacho soup, at summer's end almonds are gathered.... and the cycle continues.

For these reasons cheese, olives, olive oil, Jamon serrano, asparagus, tortilla (Spanish omelet), tagarninas (Spanish oyster thistle), setas (wild mushrooms & fungi), soups, stews, game, & pastries made with lemon, honey, almonds, and manteca (pork lard) or olive oil feature strongly in the local cuisine.